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Cycling in the Dordogne

By Bev Hawman

Exploring rural France on a bicycle is certainly the best way, in my opinion, to see the pretty villages and catch a glimpse of rural French life. You cover much more distance – and therefore get a better overall view of the region – than when walking but see so much more detail than when travelling by car, with the freedom to hop on and off your bike every few minutes if you so wish so as to read a commemorative plaque or to pop your head around the door of a tiny chapel.

As a cyclist, the most important thing for me is the scenery, and here, of course, the Dordogne really excels, with fields of sunflowers that stretch as far as the eye can see, attractive woodland, meandering riverside lanes, and astonishing viewpoints that were made for leisurely picnics. But the Dordogne holds more attraction to a cyclist than just that. The region is dotted with idyllic villages composed of medieval half-timbered houses with brown-tiled roofs, and every so often you will come across a turreted château. Most of them are private, but that does not stop you from pausing at the gates to admire the fairytale architecture. And there are other things to intrigue, too – ancient priories, underground caves, tiny craft shops – making for some thoroughly enjoyable days in the saddle.

I didn’t always stick to the suggested routes, and on several occasions explored further afield, intrigued by a signpost or a meandering lane marked on the map. This did mean I got a little lost once or twice, but in the country that hosts the Tour de France, locals are always happy to point a cyclist in the right direction. The highlight of the week for me was approaching the spectacular hanging village of Rocamadour. I recommend taking a round trip up into the Causse de Gramat and then approaching Rocamadour from the south, stopping to take a few photographs on the long descent.

The Causse de Gramat is a rugged and remote area and the narrow roads make it perfect for exploration on two wheels. On reaching Rocamadour, it is probably best to leave your bicycle, stroll through the bustling streets, and stretch your legs by climbing the many steps to the castle on the cliff top. Leave time, too, to linger in one of the many cafés with a terrace to admire the view over the valley and, if you are lucky, to watch eagles soaring in the sky.

After an exhilarating day riding your bike, there is no better reward than sitting down to an evening meal safe in the knowledge that pedalling up that hill has meant that you have earned the right to enjoy the rich cuisine of the Dordogne. Take your pick from dishes of foie gras, age-old recipes featuring duck or goose flavoured with truffles and walnut oil, and hearty stews such as cassoulet and alicot – you deserve it, along with a good bottle of wine! Foie gras is best enjoyed with a chilled sweet wine such as the local Monbazillac, while you can accompany other courses with a Côtes de Bergerac or Pécharmant red.

As for when best to go, autumn, with its many warm days and changing leaves, is my preferred season as you have the place almost to yourself, but spring and early summer, too, are also good times to visit, when there is plentiful sunshine yet the scenic country roads are still wonderfully quiet.

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