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Nostalgic for Norway

By Sarah Ridley

Majestic fjords, dramatic waterfalls, rugged mountains, wild islands, sweeping bays of fine sand, characterful cities…Norway is astonishingly varied. I've travelled to various parts of the country in recent years and still find myself taken aback each time by the sheer vastness and striking beauty of the landscapes. This is scenery that you can never tire of, no matter how many times you have seen it, because the different seasons and different light mean it is constantly changing. And there is something very humbling about standing on the shores of a fjord and looking up to the peaks above, or gazing at seemingly never-ending mountains from an elevated viewpoint.

I'm a keen walker and love Norway for its excellent walking. I would even go as far as saying that some of the best walking I've ever done has been in Norway. Favourite routes include the walk through the magical Aurland Valley, which is dotted with waterfalls and a haven for a variety of wildlife, on the From the Fjells to the Fjords holiday, and the walk above dramatic fjords to the panoramic summit of Munkebu on the Journey to Å holiday - I'll never forget the view from the peak of brooding mountains on one side and glassy lakes on the other.

A holiday to Norway needn't involve any walking, however - go fishing, take to the water in a rowing boat, or enjoy a cruise along a fjord instead. That said, there is always the option of an occasional day of walking as part of a touring holiday as we choose hotels from which there are some good local paths. For touring, we highly recommend using public transport, which allows you simply to sit back and enjoy the views from the seat of a train or the deck of a boat. In fact, the transport system is so reliable (and clean and comfortable) that there is no stress in travelling this way, an alien concept to us Brits! The fact that you may have (perfectly feasible) connection times of a minute or two between the arrival of a bus and the departure of a boat illustrates just how seamlessly integrated the different transport systems are. If on a rare occasion your bus or train is late, they wait for you. And you needn't worry about restricting your options too much by choosing the public transport system either - you can still experience some of the most magnificent scenery. Travelling by a combination of boat and rail as part of our Norwegian Highlights holiday, for example, you can journey on the Hurtigruten Journey from the Lofoten Islands to Bergen, travel along majestic Sognefjord by express boat, and cross the central highlands to finish in flourishing Oslo.

As I've said, Norway's landscapes cannot fail to impress even the most experienced traveller. For me, highlights - something hard to define in a country where there are impressive views at every turn - include a stay on the tiny Lofoten Island of Skrova, an enchanting island that you can walk around in a day and that is so untouched by tourism that you can gain a real insight into island life as it has been for decades; the Midnight Sun, which bathes Arctic Norway in perpetual light from the beginning of June to mid-July; a picnic by the third waterfall above Kinsarvik on Hardangerfjord (here the valley opens out onto a grassy area which is so peaceful it seems like another world); a stay at the Hotel Mundal at the end of the most idyllic spur of the Sognefjord (this is my favourite Norwegian hotel as it is still run by the family that built it, and it feels like a place that time forgot); the view from Mount Aksla of Ålesund, Norway's Art Nouveau town par excellence, and the outlying islands; the special atmosphere at the Hotel Finse, a simple but convivial hotel which draws people from all over Norway who want to enjoy the outdoor life on the Hardangervidda; and the Flåm Valley, though you should try to walk down it rather than take the famous railway as you have more time to marvel at the ravines and roaring waterfalls. Then there are the cities: friendly Bergen, whose painted wooden houses that line the harbour (the Bryggen) have been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and culturally rich Oslo, an unlikely art city which nevertheless boasts several excellent galleries and sculpture parks as well as a museum dedicated to Edvard Munch. Combine just a couple of these and you have the ingredients for a holiday that you'll remember for years to come and that will make you long to go back for more.

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