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From the Picos to the Sea Walk

Asturias

Asturias is in the heart of Green Spain, bordering the Atlantic. This is a region full of contrasts, with bustling ports, rugged green hills, sandy coves and the magnificent Picos de Europa mountain range with peaks reaching 2,648 metres. It is true that it rains more here than in other parts of Spain – it wouldn't be so green if it didn't – but you'll be amazed at how quickly it can clear, leaving bright blue skies. Asturians are justly proud of their region and claim that it is the only truly Spanish region, being the only province never conquered by the Moors. Their culture has distinct Celtic influences – the bagpipe (gaita) is as common here as in Scotland and the traditional costume is not unlike the Welsh national dress. They even have their own language, bable (pronounced ba-blay). Asturias is also renowned for its cider (there are even special bars – sidrerías). The way it is drunk is a tradition in itself – a group will share the same glass, pouring a small amount of cider from a bottle held above the head and drinking it in one gulp before passing the glass to the next person.

The walking

As you'd expect from a walk entitled From the Picos to the Sea, you walk through both mountain and coastal landscapes, the countryside changing noticeably as the week progresses. This is a grade 2-3 walk requiring good map and compass-reading skills, with distances varying from 11 to 21 kilometres per day. The first day you have a choice of walks in the dramatic Picos de Europa – either along the spectacular Cares Gorge or up to the isolated hamlet of Bulnes, which is inaccessible by road. The next two days' walks take you through rugged, green hills and past tiny stone hamlets. It is common to see vultures and eagles as you walk. The fourth day's walk rewards your initial ascent with a first sighting of the Atlantic, and then the final day's walk leads close to the coast, offering superb views across the sea and back over to the Picos de Europa Mountains.

Friendly casonas

The excellent accommodation along the walk is a feature which earns some of the highest praise in post-holiday questionnaires. Apart from the first hotel, which is in the bustling town of Arenas, the other hotels are in small villages and hamlets and most are converted from traditional stone houses. Two – the Casona d'Alevia and Las Helgueras – have a distinctly house-guest feel. The food is good, too, particularly at the last hotel just outside the port of Llanes, where you can take your pick from the tempting fish and seafood dishes on the menu.

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